Understanding Hardwood vs Softwood
The terms hardwood and softwood actually refer to the type of tree, not necessarily the wood’s actual hardness[1]. Hardwoods come from deciduous, broadleaf trees (like oak and walnut), while softwoods come from conifers/evergreens with needles (like pine, cedar, and cypress)[2][3]. This botanical distinction means hardwoods and softwoods often have different characteristics:
- Tree Type & Growth: Hardwoods (oak, walnut, maple, etc.) are from leaf-shedding trees, usually slower-growing. Softwoods (pine, cedar, cypress, etc.) are from cone-bearing trees, often faster-growing and thus more plentiful in lumber yards[4].
- Wood Structure: Hardwoods typically have visible pores in their grain and can be very dense and heavy. Softwoods have a simpler structure with no pores (often showing resin canals instead) and tend to be lighter and less dense.
- Hardness & Durability: As a rule of thumb, hardwoods are harder and more wear-resistant than softwoods – for example, oak is much harder than pine. However, there are exceptions: balsa wood is a hardwood that’s extremely soft, while some softwoods (like yew or certain cedars) are relatively hard. The Janka hardness scale is often used to compare wood hardness by measuring how much force it takes to dent the wood. (We’ll mention Janka ratings for each wood below for reference.) Importantly, “hardwood” doesn’t automatically mean better – it depends on the application.
- Common Uses: Due to their strength and beauty, hardwoods are favored for furniture, cabinetry, and flooring (think oak flooring or walnut furniture). Softwoods, being more abundant and easier to cut, are widely used in construction lumber (framing studs, sheathing) and outdoor projects[5]. For example, pine and fir (softwoods) are the mainstay for 2×4 framing, while hardwoods like oak often become dining tables or hardwood floors. Softwoods can also be used decoratively (like pine paneling or cedar shingles) but generally won’t withstand heavy wear as well as a tough hardwood.
Understanding these differences helps you choose the right lumber. Next, let’s compare some common species side by side.
Hardwood Examples: Oak and Walnut
Oak is one of the most popular hardwoods in DIY and woodworking. It’s known for being very hard, strong, and durable. For instance, white oak scores about 1,360 lbf on the Janka hardness scale (and red oak about 1,290 lbf)[6] – meaning it’s tough to dent. This high hardness, along with oak’s dense grain, makes it excellent for flooring that can take a beating, as well as for furniture and cabinetry that last for generations. Oak has a pronounced grain pattern and can be a bit coarse, but it finishes beautifully. Woodworkers do note that because oak is so hard, it can be harder to saw or nail (pre-drilling for screws is often wise), but the trade-off is exceptional sturdiness and wear-resistance.
Walnut is another beloved hardwood, prized for its rich dark color and fine grain. The most common furniture walnut, Black Walnut, is slightly softer than oak – about 1,010 lbf Janka hardness[7] – but still plenty hard for most uses. This moderate hardness makes walnut easier to work with hand tools or carve, compared to oak. Walnut is a top choice for high-end furniture, cabinets, and even guitar bodies, because it balances good strength with workability. It holds detail well (great for carved accents), sands to a very smooth finish, and polishes to a deep luster. In practical terms: an oak tabletop might resist scratches a bit better than walnut, but walnut’s beauty and stability (it’s less prone to warping) make it excellent for fine woodworking. Many woodworkers love using walnut for its combination of aesthetic warmth and solid durability.
(Both oak and walnut aretrue hardwoods– coming from deciduous trees – and they exemplify why hardwood lumber is favored for long-lasting, high-quality wood projects.)
Softwood Examples: Pine and Cypress
Pine is a classic example of a softwood. Pine lumber (such as Eastern white pine) is lightweight and very easy to work, which is why it’s commonly used for house framing and DIY projects. However, it is much softer than the hardwoods above – Eastern white pine has a Janka hardness around 380 lbf[8], making it prone to dents and dings. Even a fingernail can leave a mark in very soft pine. There are harder pines, like Southern yellow pine, which can be around 870 lbf in hardness[9], but even those don’t quite reach the hardness of oak or walnut. Because pine is so workable (easy to cut, nail, and sand), it’s great for beginner woodworking, trim, and painted projects. You’ll often find pine in rustic furniture, shelving, or decorative wall paneling. Just remember pine is not as wear-resistant – a pine floor will show scratches more easily than an oak floor, for example – so it’s best used where heavy abrasion is not a concern or where a distressed, rustic look is part of the charm.
Cypress is another softwood, though it’s a bit unique. Cypress (e.g., bald cypress in the southern U.S.) is technically a conifer like pine, so it’s classified as a softwood. Its wood is of moderate hardness – roughly 510 lbf on the Janka scale[10], which is harder than white pine but still far below oak. What cypress is really known for is its natural durability in wet or outdoor conditions. Cypress heartwood contains natural oils (sometimes called cypressene) that make it highly resistant to rot, decay, and insects[11]. Because of this, cypress has been a traditional choice for outdoor projects: you’ll see it in house siding, porch columns, decks, and even boat building[12][13]. It’s dimensionally stable (meaning it doesn’t warp or twist much with humidity changes) and it machines nicely, with a straight, tight grain that takes stain or paint well. In appearance, cypress wood often has a pale yellowish to light brown color with a fine grain. DIYers might use cypress for things like outdoor furniture or yard structures where they want a wood that lasts. In short, while cypress is a softwood (so not as hard as oak or walnut), it offers excellent outdoor durability that many hardwoods (except expensive ones like teak) can’t match.
Eastern Red Cedar: A Softwood with Hardwood-Like Strength
Eastern Red Cedar boards often showcase a mix of rich reddish-purple heartwood and pale creamy sapwood, along with characteristic knots.Eastern Red Cedar occupies a special spot in the lumber world. Technically, it’s a softwood – it comes from an evergreen conifer (Juniperus virginiana, a juniper tree in the cypress family). But in practice, this wood has some traits more like a hardwood. For one, it’s surprisingly hard for a softwood. Eastern Red Cedar has a Janka hardness around 900 lbf[14], which is higher than many “softer” hardwoods. (For perspective, that’s about on par with black cherry or paper birch hardwoods[15], and well above woods like yellow poplar or alder that are considered hardwoods[16].) In fact, Eastern Red Cedar is the hardest cedar species – much harder than the Western Red Cedar used in decking (which is only ~350 lbf) or the white cedars (~320 lbf)[17]. This means Eastern Red Cedar is better at resisting dents and wear than most other softwoods.
Another standout feature of Eastern Red Cedar is its natural durability. Like its cypress relatives, it’s rich in aromatic oils and resins that repel insects and slow down decay. The wood is rated as extremely resistant to rot and insect attack, even in direct ground contact[18]. This is why farmers and ranchers have long used untreated cedar posts for fences – you can stick an Eastern Red Cedar post in the ground and it will resist rot for many years without chemical treatment[18]. The pleasant cedar aroma is not just for our noses; it actively deters moths and other pests (hence the classic cedar-lined closets and cedar chests for storing wool clothes)[19].
In terms of weight and workability, Eastern Red Cedar is moderately lightweight (about 33 lbs/ft³ dried) and easy to work with tools[20]. It saws, planes, and sands well, although it often comes with knots (since the trees are smaller and often knotty). Those knots can be a bit challenging, and the wood’s natural oils and even a bit of silica can dull blades over time[20], so sharp tools are important. Eastern Red Cedar glues and finishes nicely, but many woodworkers leave it unfinished in certain projects to preserve its aroma[21]. The wood’s appearance – streaks of deep red/purple heartwood against creamy white sapwood – makes for striking panels and furniture, and it tends to darken to a richer red or even a silvered look over years of exposure.
In summary, Eastern Red Cedar is classified as a softwood (it’s a conifer), but it bridges the gap between softwoods and hardwoods. It offers a level of hardness and strength you don’t see in typical pine or cedar, and it brings built-in pest and rot resistance. This combination makes it a favorite for specific projects, as we’ll see next.
Using Eastern Red Cedar in Construction, Cabinetry, and Woodworking
Eastern Red Cedar’s unique properties lend themselves to a variety of practical applications. Here are some of the advantages and uses of this wood across construction and woodworking projects:
- Outdoor Construction: Thanks to its rot resistance, Eastern Red Cedar is prized for outdoor uses. It’s often used for fence posts, and notably these cedar posts can be set directly in the ground without chemical preservatives[18]. The heartwood’s natural oils protect it from decay even in contact with soil. You might also find Eastern Red Cedar in things like gazebo or pergola components, shingles, or siding for sheds and barns – places where its weather durability is a bonus. One limitation is that cedar trees are often small and knotty, so you can’t get huge lumber beams from them; it’s less suited to long structural beams or framing studs compared to, say, pine[22]. But for posts, rails, and outdoor trim, cedar provides longevity and a rustic look. Plus, if you’re building raised garden beds or planter boxes, cedar is a great choice since it won’t rot quickly and is generally safe for gardens (no chemicals needed).
- Cabinetry and Furniture: Eastern Red Cedar’s beautiful color and aroma make it a popular choice for certain furniture and cabinet applications. A classic example is the hope chest (cedar chest) – a blanket chest or trunk made of cedar to protect linens and clothing. The wood’s scent naturally repels moths and other fabric pests, making it ideal for storage furniture[19]. In cabinetry or case furniture, you might not build an entire kitchen out of aromatic cedar, but you can use it for drawer bottoms, cabinet back panels, or closet interiors to take advantage of its fragrance. Many closets are lined with cedar boards or panels on the inside for the same reason – it keeps clothes smelling fresh and moth-free. For visible furniture parts, Eastern Red Cedar can add a lovely reddish accent or rustic vibe (for example, a cabinet door panel or a decorative face frame). Woodworkers do use it for handcrafted pieces like rustic log furniture, jewelry boxes, or drawer liners. Just keep in mind its moderate strength: it’s not usually used for something needing extreme load-bearing strength (oak or maple might be better for a heavy-duty table), but for accent pieces, indoor storage, and medium-duty furniture, cedar works great and brings that signature smell and look.
- Interior Paneling and Décor: One of the most common uses of Eastern Red Cedar is in interior wood paneling and trim. If you’ve ever stepped into a cedar-lined closet, you’ll recognize the distinct aroma and the look of the reddish boards. Homeowners and DIYers often install tongue-and-groove cedar planks on closet walls or ceilings to create a natural moth-repellent lining for clothes storage[23]. Cedar paneling is also used in saunas, cabin interiors, or as accent walls in homes to give a warm, woodsy aesthetic. The wood’s visual appeal — reddish-brown tones with knots and streaks — adds character to rooms. As trim or moulding, cedar can frame windows and doors with a pop of color contrast (the pale sapwood can even look like stripes against the red). Importantly, when using cedar indoors, many people choose a light finish or no finish on the wood, so that the aroma is not sealed in. A simple oil or shellac can protect the wood while still allowing some scent to come through[24]. In short, for wall paneling, ceilings, wainscoting, or decorative trim, Eastern Red Cedar is a wonderful option that combines form and function (beauty and bug deterrence).
- General Woodworking Projects: Woodworkers enjoy Eastern Red Cedar for all sorts of smaller projects and crafts. It’s relatively easy to cut and carve (comparable to a medium hardwood in hardness) and it sands smooth, so you can make things like carvings, small boxes, picture frames, or toys with it. The wood’s stability (when properly dried) means it will hold its shape well indoors[25]. Outdoor projects are a natural fit too: cedar’s rot resistance lends itself to birdhouses, bird feeders, planter boxes, outdoor chairs or benches, and other yard décor. For example, a cedar birdhouse will last years outside and the aroma might even help repel insects from nesting inside. Eastern Red Cedar has even been used for archery bows by traditional bowyers, because it has a decent stiffness and can store energy (one of its nicknames is “juniper” and some Native American bows were made from it)[26]. When working with cedar, just use sharp blades and bits – its knots and any mineral content can dull tools a bit faster[20] – and consider wearing a dust mask, as that aromatic dust can irritate some people’s allergies. Overall, it’s a fun wood for DIY projects because it looks great even with a simple oil finish and your workshop will smell amazing while you work it!
Conclusion: Choosing the Right Wood for Your Project
Whether you’re building a bookshelf or a backyard deck, knowing the difference between hardwoods and softwoods will help you pick the right lumber. Hardwoods like oak and walnut offer superb strength, hardness, and beauty for furniture and floors, while softwoods like pine and cypress are easier to work and ideal for structural lumber or outdoor use (especially when natural rot-resistance is needed). Eastern Red Cedar proves that the hardwood/softwood distinction isn’t just about hardness – even as a softwood, it delivers respectable hardness and excellent durability[27], making it a standout choice for specific projects where its aroma and rot-proof nature shine. By understanding these differences and characteristics – from Janka hardness numbers to real-world uses – you can confidently choose the lumber that best fits your project’s needs. Happy woodworking!
Sources: Hardwood and softwood definitions and Janka hardness values from Wood Database and industry references[28][29][15][10][18], and practical usage insights from woodworking resources[23][30].
[1][2][17][27][28] Cedar Wood: Color, Varieties, & Uses – Vermont Woods Studios
[3][4][5][6][7][8][9][15][16][29] Janka Hardness and Wood Species – Waterlox Coatings Corporation
https://waterlox.com/guide-janka-hardness-and-wood-species/
[14][18][19][20][21][26][30] Eastern Red Cedar | The Wood Database (Softwood)
https://www.wood-database.com/eastern-red-cedar/
